Life After Jaipur... Our Kashmir Adventures

Hello Hello!

Since leaving Jaipur, Lauren and I have been traveling in the north and ended up in the beautiful state of Kashmir for just over a week. We found Kashmir to be a really beautiful and welcoming place. After a day of bus and jeep rides we settled down in the city of Shrinagar in the famous houseboats on Dal Lake for 3 days all together. During that time we were able to explore the area with a contact I had been given by my friend Omar ji. Karam, who was our spunky tour guide in the beginning of the trip, turned out to be a real friend by the end.  We were so lucky to have Karam to show us the best of Shrinagar and share so many laughs and memories. We also got the chance to introduce him to trekking in the Himalayas of his own state, which he had never experienced before.

We all set out on a 5 day trekking trip starting in the mountain town of Naranag with a lot of determination and little knowledge of the challenges we would face along the way. The first night we camped along a beautiful river that was fed directly from the snowy mountains, which were just above us. The valley was almost completely enveloped by the mountains, and the night sky was filled with the most beautiful starry constellations I have ever seen. The next day we headed up the mountain and camped on a pasture with an outrageous view of the snow capped mountains. The panoramic view provided us with a heads up of oncoming rain and snow storms.. which were a common occurrence over our next 2 days on top of the mountain. The next big day hike was to a lake surrounded by the snowy peaks. To get there we walked many ours on another pass running along the sides of the mountains. What I did not expect was the snowy mounds we would have to cross along the way. This created a battle within myself for the rest of the day as I fought my paralysing fear of falling down the snowy slopes of the mountain. I was so lucky to have Lauren and Karam motivate and support me during this inner conflict, as well as the experienced and laid back attitude of our fantastic guide. We ended up having a really challenging and rewarding hike that day, over mountains and snow, but did not make it to our final destination. We turned back early for the long trek home, and got caught in a snow storm along the way! Our guide kept us going even through the wild weather, and we returned back to the camp by night fall.

After that day you might imagine that we were all a little worn-out. We spent a final night at the camp, desperate for warmth in the wet and cold storm, before heading back down to the river the next day. There we spent a relaxing final night and day along the river. After spending a little more time in Shrinagar, we said our farewells and took another long bus trip to McLeod Ganj, where we are currently staying. I will say that although neither of us expected to end up in Kashmir, we are so thankful for the experience. It was very interesting to compare the culture there to that of Jaipur, which had been our home for so long. It was also great to see the current state of Kashmir since many people, including ourselves, have an inaccurate perception of the state because of its controversial conflicts in the past.

With that I will cut myself off and post some of the pictures that help tell our story of Kashmir.

Wishing you all the best,
Tay

A view of the mountains when we reached the pasture to set up our base camp.

Lauren with the wonderful horses that are used to carry up the camping necessities

Lauren as we cross over a snowy mountain top!

Our calm and collected guide, Zepher, leading the way.

Sunrise on our last day at Dal Lake in Shrinagar.

Sunset when we first arrived at Dal Lake.

The small boats that transport goods and people on Dal Lake and a view of the houseboats in the distance.

The 3 Musketeers visiting the Mughal gardens.

Surprise, I'm Staying!

Hi Everyone,

For the past week all the students in the group returned to Jaipur work on our independent study papers. We spent a few rough days finishing them up and making presentations. Finally, we all presented our studies for the school and each other, and then we celebrated. :) The past few days have been very bitter sweet because I am excited for the next adventure, but so sad to leave these people and memories behind. I have to say that in such a short period of time I did not expect to make such close bonds with some of the students on the trip. Looking back on my initial perception, I don't know what I was thinking. If anything is going to bond a group of students, 3 months in India will definitely do it. Tomorrow I am leaving with my friend Lauren for Delhi, and many of the students have already left to catch their flights back home.

As I pack and reminisce, I know I must take time to reflect on the past 3 months. I will be spending time writing down stories and moments that I do not want to ever forget. In the past month of ISP all of the students have faced some immense challenges. From working with translators, traveling to unknown places, and conducting independent research for the first time. I am so proud and impressed with how much everyone accomplished and how much we have all been able to learn from each others experiences. During ISP I also had to make some decisions about the rest of my summer. After a lot of deep thought and conversations with friends and family, I decided to follow my instincts and stay in India longer then I had originally planned. I am traveling with friends for one month in the north, and then I will be staying with families and volunteering at different farms until July 17th, when I will fly home to my family for the rest of the summer. I have been so happy during my time in India, and since I had the option to stay, I didn't feel like I could give it up. There is so much more that I can learn in India, and I would like to keeping growing in this country, culture, and environment for as long as I can.

Tonight there are so many thoughts and emotions running through my head as this chapter of India comes to a close, and another begins. Therefore, I would like to keep it short and share some of my favorite memories over the past few weeks with you all through pictures.

Thank you all for continuing to read about my experiences here. I miss you all and would not have been able to make this decisions without the support I have received from all of you. As I journey back into the mountains I do not know how often I will be able to blog or have access to the internet. The posts will probably be a little less frequent, but I will try to write updates when I find internet cafe's.

Sending my love to you all,
TayTay

Two little girls that I met on a morning walk in Chamoli. 

A group of kids with a lot of personality who I met at a dam protest in Chamoli. 

The cake for my going-away party at my advisor's office in Dehradun.
Thank you so much JP and Channel Mountain Communications!
I miss you all so much.

Time to dig in! So tasty!

Back in Jaipur...  A beautiful view in the pink city.

Got Chai?

Hellooo lovelies,

As I write this post I am nearing the end of my 1 month independent study. In the last week I will mostly be writing my paper and completing a few last minute interviews. Since I have not written a blog post in a little while, I wanted to start by describing a typical day in Dehradun, which is where I live when I am not in the mountains. :)

I have been living in the guesthouse of a local NGO here called RLEK. Everyday I wake up in a room I share with 1 or 2 other students from my trip, depending on there schedules. Then we each take turns getting ready for the day and discussing our plans. We go downstairs for breakfast, which is served at the NGO, and then I leave to take my daily journey to my advisors office. My advisor, JP Panwar, is the head of a local media organization called Channel Mountain Communications, and his office is across the city and about an hour ride from the guesthouse. 

I walk to the main road and get on my first shared taxi of the day, which are called Vikrams. I take this to another place where I catch a different shared taxi the rest of the way to the office. In the beginning I would often pick the wrong taxi and end up in a different part of the city. This is one example of how dependent we can be on the kindness of strangers in India. Luckily, people always respond to this need, especially in Dehradun, which I have found to be particularly welcoming and friendly. Once I am guided to the correct Vikram, by a driver or passenger, all is well. Now I have gotten the hang of this morning journey and can relax and enjoy whatever new experiences come my way. I often talk to women who get on the taxi and want to know where I am from and what I am doing in here. Some ask me why I am in India, their children all want to go to America! ;) I laugh and tell them I love India and I am learning so much here. Most mornings are a great opportunity to practice hindi, and for the other passengers to practice their english. It is a good trade-off. 

I look forward to the daily adventure to and from the office, most of all for the opportunity to observe and interact with the local people here. Everyday I pass by fresh fruit and vegetable stands, metal making shops, wood carving, tailors, children in uniforms going to school, people going to work, and so much more. It is a great way to familiarize myself with the city. Near my office there are even fields of fruit trees, wheat, and vegetables that people are harvesting everyday. And of course, from anywhere in Dehradun, you can see the foothills of the himalayas in the distance. 

Speaking of the mountains, I have made a few more trips up to Tehri and other areas to collect data for my study on the Tehri dam. I recently went with a friend of JP's for a few days and collected many interviews and observations of the areas all around the Tehri dam and reservoir site. This was a very successful and eye-opening visit, and it was very hard to tear myself away from the mountain communities and return to Dehradun. I am lucky that Thapliyal ji was so well connected to the communities there, because his family is from the Tehri district, and he able to set up so many valuable interviews for me. During our drives through the mountains he also shared a lot of local knowledge and stories with me that he had learned from growing up in the mountains. We also shared jokes along the way as we formed a friendship, many of which revolved around Chai. Since many people offer you chai when you meet with them, we probably drank close to ten cups a day. Thapliyal ji cannot get enough chai, and always welcomes another cup. Meanwhile, I was beginning to reach my limits, and he made this into a joke by always asking me if we should stop for some more chai. :)

As this journey in Uttarakhand continues for one more week, I am feeling tired but determined to finish out the semester strong. After meeting so many people and seeing so many places that are still affected by this dam project, I feel a strong emotional investment to create a good study for all the people I have met along the way. 

I will write again once I return to Jaipur!

Sending my best thoughts and wishes back to all of you,

Taylor

A typical day of film editing in my advisors office. Everyone loveees to pose for pictures.

Then they turned the camera on me... working hard, or hardly working? 

On my first day back to Tehri my translator and I visited the community I had met on my first trip here.
I was so fortunate to have the chance to see them again and interview some of the women.

This dog has the right idea. A great place to relax and enjoy the view.

A view of the Tehri dam from the other side as we made our first trip around the reservoir.

A new view of the deepest and widest part of the reservoir.
Here you can see the top of the tallest building in what used to be Old Tehri Town.
One of many haunting images we saw that day.

Our driver enjoying a drink from one of the fresh mountain springs.

My wonderful translator who now feels like yet another one of the many Indian fathers I have acquired.
Thapliyal ji was born and raised in the mountains of Tehri Gahrwal.

We were lucky enough to see one of the native nomadic communities of Uttarakhand,
 migrating into the mountains for  the summer. 

Heading to the Himalayas

To all my friends and family,

First off, I wanted to say thank you to all of you who take the time to read about what I am up to. It is nice to know that others are reading about my experiences. Even though I am not able to keep in touch with all of you individually, and even less so now that I am in the mountains, it is nice to think that we are keeping in touch in some way. 

On Monday I began my experience of the independent study portion of our trip with a 6:00 am train to Delhi. A group of students were starting their travels this way as well, so we were able to keep each other company for the first leg of the journey. Once we arrived in Delhi, I separated from the group and found a taxi to take me to an activists apartment in Delhi. I spent the next two days there listening to stories about the fight against the Tehri Dam and reading his documents. During this time a BBC film crew arrived and I discovered that we would be meeting them in Uttarakhand and traveling with them as they collected stories and film about water issues in the state. My activist friend was going to help them because of his connections with the rehabilitated communities and knowledge of the dam development. 

(While I was in Delhi it rained and thunder-stormed for the first time since I have been in India. I hadn't realized how much I missed rain until it was pouring down in front of me. I couldn't help my eyes from tearing up slightly as stared out into the storm and reached my hand out to feel the drops falling from the sky.)

On Tuesday night we took a bus to Hardwar and met the film crew in a hotel for a few more hours of sleep. Then we started off the day by visiting communities that has been displaced by the Tehri dam and were relocated to Hardwar. Here we met a community that was living on infertile land and was planning to leave this land that the government had provided for them. Their livelihood was dependent on agriculture and they could not grow good quality crops on the land they has been relocated to. We also visited other communities that had problems with their drinking water. In these cases their was a canal near by with Ganga water from the dam that they could not use because it was going to other states for irrigation or drinking water. The sad irony is that this huge hydro-power project is not benefiting the people in the state of Uttarakhand, yet they continue to bear the burden of all the consequences of these massive development projects.

After these interviews we made our way to Rishikesh, and then started our journey up the mountains. We were traveling up to the dam site in the Garhwal Himalaya mountain region. By car it took us two hours of traveling up and down windy roads, around and through mountain sides, until we reached our destination. This mountain environment was unlike any I have ever seen before. It was scattered with villages, streams, vegetation, and terraced farmland carved into the sides of the mountains. Due to the twists and turns of the road, motion sickness got the best of me once on the way up, and once on the way back. Luckily, after a quick stop I was recovered enough to continue our journey. Our kindhearted driver played lively indian music for me during these slightly embarrassing moments, and everyone in the car quickly lifted my spirits back up. :)

We spent one full day in New Tehri town, which was one of the main resettlement sites for the displaced people of Old Tehri town. Old Tehri town was completely submerged by the reservoir of the Tehri dam, which is one of the largest dams in Asia. We visited a community in the town which was given tin-sheds as compensation for displacement. I spent time with the young girls in this community and enjoyed playing and talking with them. Their mother was interviewed by BBC about their troubles since resettlement. She explained that they receive water from the reservoir but it is not consistent and sometimes does not come out of the spigot for days. Furthermore, the water is not clean and is making her young son sick, but there is no proper hospital to treat his illness in Tehri. She is also concerned about saving dowry for her young daughters to marry. This experience made a lasting impression on all of us, and I hope to visit them again before the end of my independent study.

We also visited the dam site before leaving the mountains. It was a conflicting moment, which is a feeling I always have when observing complex power-generation facilities. On one hand the technology is impressive and overwhelming, but it is also painful to think of all the consequences and impacts that occurred in order to build the massive Tehri dam.

At the end of the week I reluctantly said goodbye to my traveling crew and took a jeep ride to Dehradun.  I am still reflecting on how fortunate I was to experience and observe so many unforgettable things in just a matter of 4 days with such generous people. Now I am in Dehradun, and will I continue my study of the Tehri dam here for the next few days. 

Wishing you all well, 

TayTay

The wall of role models at the apartment in Delhi.

The kitchen where debates about Gandhi ji, hindi and english lessons,
environmental lectures, and cooking lessons were held nightly.

The Ganga in Hardwar and the beginning of our trip in Uttarakhand.

Jill and Andy in action at the first filming and interview of a rehabilitated family in Hardwar.

Jill and the first interviewee. 

Lots of activities along the Ganga in Rishikesh. 

We had to stop during the 2 hour windy drive up to Tehri because I was motion sick. :P
This is our kind-hearted driver who always made me smile.

One of the most beautiful views I have ever seen from New Tehri Town.

The sweetest little girl who I hope to visit again one day. You cannot help but be happy when you see her smile.

The view of the reservoir at the Tehri Dam. This is where Old Tehri Town used to exist before it was submerged.

Workshop week in Pune

My first trip to the south-western region and coast of India!

You may be wondering why I am so far away from my familiar state of Rajasthan, and I can tell you I was thinking the same thing. This opportunity arose because part of the program includes breaking into small groups and going to different areas all over India for one week. This allows us to concentrate on a particular topic within sustainable development and social change, while gaining more practical experience for our independent study projects. My initial instinct was to go to a rural area and learn about sustainable agriculture... But during the decision process something told me I should go to the Pune trip, which is a beautiful city south of Mumbai. The theme of this trip was the urban crisis in India and urban development. Our contact in Pune was one of our guest lecturers, Professor Parwar, who also is a Professor of Architecture at Cummins College of Engineering for Women. He set the schedule for us each day, which usually consisted of some educational lecture in the morning, interactions with the students and faculty, and then an excursion to different development sites in Pune. It was a very busy schedule, but we certainly did learn a lot about urban planning.

This trip was one of my most challenging weeks thus far, but it was also really rewarding. As I reflect on the week since returning to Jaipur, I do not regret my decision to go to Pune. I think I needed the challenge of quickly adapting to a new city and region of India, while getting a much more intimate look at the urban side of sustainable development. I was surprised at how different this region of India is compared to the north. The city of Pune was much more progressive. Many people were not dressed in traditional indian outfits, which is one of the first observations we all made. Second, the food is much spicier! It was also apparent that more women and younger people were out on the streets later into the night, which is unheard of in Jaipur. I think there are many variables involved in the differences between Pune and Jaipur, but it was eye-opening to observe and compare.

There are so many things I could say about urban development, but I will keep it to a few main thoughts. As we visited different development strategies in and around the city, I was sad to see the large influence western developers are having on Indian cities like Pune. Some developers are building neighborhoods and advertising them as an answer to the urban crisis, when in reality they do not provide any relief to this problem. Lavasa is a development in the mountains about an hour from Pune that is suppose to relieve the housing crisis, when really they are just selling second homes and vacation houses for the elite class. It is disappointing to see that developers are coming here and making the same mistakes and problems that they do in the states. However, I have a lot of hope that, although mistakes will be made, India can learn from western development and will successfully address their urban crisis. We also saw some success stories in the city and the slums. Although I learned a lot about the wrong way to develop, I also have a better understanding of what a successful alternative urban development could look like.

Well, sorry for the rant! I will cut myself off now.
Here are some of my favorite pictures from the week in Pune...

During our first day in Pune we went on a Heritage Walk to understand the architecture and history of the city.

Professor Parwar orienting us to Pune (great shot of our program directors Awadhesh ji and Trilochan ji on the left)

Visit to a Shiva ji temple on a hill overlooking the city of Pune.

My first dam sighting in India. On the way to Lavasa, a western style development in the mountains.

Jen and I making the most of our cramped car rides!

Beautiful chalk drawing outside one of the Colleges we visited in Pune.

One of my favorite temples in a mature slum development in Pune.

This man had great style. Couldn't resist snapping a shot of him.

A curious little girl in the neighborhood

Looking out onto the Arabian sea in Mumbai!

A few young musicians I met next to the Mumbai train station

Lions, and Tigers, and Bears...?

Namaste from Ranthambore!

After Holi we had a free three day weekend, so some of the students from my group and I planned a trip to go to a town only a few hours away from Jaipur called Sawai Modhpur. This town is just a few miles from the Ranthambore National park and tiger preserve. This is where we spent a relaxing and adventure filled weekend. We even took a safari through the park in the hopes of spotting a tiger. Unfortunately, the tigers were not too keen on being seen that day.. haha. It's getting late here, so I will let the pictures speak for themselves tonight.

 Cleaning up, a common site the morning after Holi in Jaipur.

Cow with a tika!

Biking with kids in Ranthambore! Use those muscles Melissa!

Jake biking as one of the boys gets ready to hop on the back!

Building up our hopes of spotting a Tiger on the safari..

We were invited in for chai at the house of a local family. Indian hospitality is truly one of a kind.

Another chai break before the safari... :)

Our tour guide in the national park. He was quite a character.
"No, there is no poaching here. Yes, poaching is a big problem here..." hmmm...

Light savers? No, just a wedding party!

Second wedding of the night! Thanks Ranthambore!